As the rain lashed down and the historical re-enactors stoically completed their commemorations on the Inner Harbor, I cowered under the little cover I could find and recalled my time in Baltimore. Arriving on a balmy Wednesday evening I had not known what to expect, my knowledge of the city limited to what dubious “facts” I had gleaned from The Wire.  As we swept past the homes of the legendary Orioles and the Super Bowl-winning Ravens on the way in from the airport, I realised that I knew nothing about the real Baltimore and resolved to discover as much as I could in the three days I had in the “Charm City”.

Photo caption: Baltimore’s National Aquarium with the USS Torsk in the foreground. Photo by Mark Crabbie.

I was invited to the city to watch the 150th Anniversary Commemorations of the Pratt Street Riot (the first bloodshed of the American Civil War). I enjoyed it immensely, happy to be surprised by the warm welcome and wide range of attractions offered by the city. My first morning was spent in the company of the charming Monee and Camila from the local tourism authorities. We first enjoyed an enormous breakfast of pancakes with bananas and strawberries in the high kitsch environs of Cafe Hon. After our feast, we were treated to  a fascinating demonstration of glass blowing by the charismatic Tim at McFadden Art Glass. Watching Tim manipulate the viscous glass was mesmerising and seeing how the process built towards the final piece certainly appealed to the geek within me.

Left to my own devices for the afternoon, I explored the USS Torsk and USS Constellation, taking an especially childish delight in exploring the cramped conditions onboard the Torsk, an entirely mechanical WWII-era submarine marvellously free of electronic devices. The smell of diesel permeated the ship and the lack of space contributed to a heady atmosphere so, despite my fascination it was a relief to emerge into the bright sunlight again. Baltimore has exerted a great effort in smartening up its waterfront and these ships, along with the landmark National Aquarium, Maryland Science Center and the Visionary Art Museum at the harbour’s mouth, provide visitors with a compact and attraction-filled base from which to explore.

Photo caption: The cramped torpedo room of the USS Torsk. Photo by Mark Crabbie.

For those willing to venture further afield, Hampden in the north of the city offers a charming day’s escape from the centre of the city. The skyscrapers of Downtown seem a world away as you amble down immaculately maintained streets filled with independent stores and cafes. We popped into Ma Petite Shoe which is stuffed with limited edition shoes and has a thoroughly exclusive chocolate shop out the back. Chocolate-covered edamame anyone?

Photo caption: The quiet streets of Hampden, Baltimore. Photo by Mark Crabbie.

Each evening I would take the Water Taxi around past the aquarium to the north side of the harbour and take in the atmosphere in Baltimore’s historic Fell’s Point. Originally a heavily commercial area, Fell’s Point has been largely renovated and now its cobbled streets are home to quirky bars and restaurants.  It feels like a world away from the Inner Harbor. In these bars I really felt like I was getting to know locals who were always keen to find out why I was in the city and what I thought of it.

While nearby Washington hogs the majority of European visitors to the region, Baltimore is a city much visited by Americans. Known in the states for its warm hospitality, its seafood-based cuisine (how could I not mention the crab!) and as the home of the Star Spangled Banner, it welcomes American visitors by the million yet it remains comparatively unknown in Europe. The city is easily accessible from the UK and offers a completely different experience to other cities on America’s north eastern seaboard.

Note: This trip to Baltimore courtesy of the Capital Region USA

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